Having the correct moisture and protein balance is key to Healthy relaxed or chemically treated hair. Protein makes the hair strong, but too much protein can cause breakage. The same goes for moisture, we need moisture for our hair as well, but too much moisture can make the hair very elastic and soft which can lead to breakage. The way I balance out my protein and moisture is that I use primarily moisture based products, but once a week, sometimes every other week, I will do a mild protein deep conditioning treatment. Or once or twice a week I use a protein based leave in conditioner(Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave-In).
So, let me break protein down for you a little bit.
What is Protein- Protein is what makes hair strong and structured. Hair is mostly Keratin a kind of protein. When hair undergoes any chemical service or damaged by misuse of heat tools, protein is lost so the hair loses some elasticity or strength.
Why do we need Protein- Black hair which is usually very curly/kinky tends to be dry and somewhat fragile even when natural. So by coloring or relaxing the hair, it becomes even weaker.Also, if you are a natural and constantly use heat, protein may be your friend.
Depending on the condition of your hair or the strength of the relaxer treatments, you may need more or less protein. Protein will strengthen the hair and make hair stronger.
Ok, so I'm going to try and make this as simple as possible.
When do you need Protein- If your hair is very mushy, it's breaking easily, too soft, and it just feels like it's going to snap when you touch it...You need protein.
Just so you understand the difference between moisture and protein...You would need moisture, if your hair feels dry and brittle.
Best ways to Incorporate Protein in a Regimen- With a Deep Conditioner or Reconstructer.
A reconstructer is a light protein treatment which you would normally leave on hair for 3-5 minutes after washing then you would rinse out.Those who relax should always use a reconstructer before neutralizing.
For really damaged hair lacking protein, Aphogee has a 2 step system which should be used once every 2 months which I read various reviews stating it works really well.
Examples of Protein Based Products I have uses
Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructer
Aphogee Pro Vitamin Leave-in Conditioner
Joice KPak Reconstructer
ORS Hair Mayonaise( Mild Protein Deep Conditioner)
ORS Replenishing Pak (mild protein, but moisturizing too)
1 Egg (mixed in Conditioner or ORS Hair Mayo)(this is a mild treatment if used with a moisturizing conditioner and a medium-strong treatment if mixed with ORS Hair Mayo)
There are so many others out there
My advice when it comes to using Protein- Go with how your hair feels. If your hair feels like it needs some protein and your hair is fairly healthy, do a mild protein deep conditioning treatment. With Protein, you don't really need to use based on a schedule...You use Protein based on the health of your hair
Here are 2 must reads if you want more info on Protein or Protein/Moisture Balance
Why Does Black Hair Need Protein
Fine Art of Protein Moisture Balance
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